Apple 20-inch Cinema Display Repair

November 27, 2007

I'm a die-hard Apple fan, but I must say I've had a run of bad Apple luck in the past month. My Mac Pro's ATI X1900 XT video card began to fail due to overheating. (The Apple Store at least took 1/2 off the price of a replacement - out of warranty.) My MacBook Pro is occasionally reporting -128 deg. C from the GPU heatsink (hmmmm...) and my iPhone had a little ear-speaker glitch. Oh yes - and my 4 year old 20-inch Apple Cinema Display just died.

My G5 used to sport dual 20-inch ACDs. When I replaced them with a 30-inch ACD, I took one in to the office and began using it as my primary work display. A nice improvement over my Dell 19-inch CRT. Well, the other day, upon arrival at my office, I was greeted with a dim upper-half of the display along with a blinking power LED (short-short-long), indicating a bad backlight inverter board. Bum luck.

A bit of Googling showed me that I could grab a replacement board for $125 and fix the issue with a little rolling up of the sleeves. This is what I did and, indeed, I'm now back in business. I thought I'd share the photo gallery documenting the swap-out. If you find yourself in the same boat, I hope these photos help.

Posted by blakespot at November 27, 2007 11:28 PM | TrackBack
Comments

Not related to this post but I just wanted to let you know that I really enjoy your site and vintage computers. Awesome work!

Posted by: Armand CernA at December 11, 2007 10:49 PM

Something similar just happened to my 22" cinema display. Where did you buy the replacement board?

Posted by: Zamir Khan at January 4, 2008 10:39 AM

Same thing happened to me but on a 17-inch model. Where did you get the replacement inverter board?

Posted by: Robert B at January 13, 2008 12:45 AM

This is the inverter board I used in this repair:

http://www.lcdparts.net/DesktopInverterDetail.aspx?InverterOriginal=T65I014.00MSS

$129 USD presently. It is possible that I could have simply replaced the two capacitors that, on closer inspection, appear to be leaking (see the little black dots on them?) to get the unit working again. That may have been all that was needed, FYI.

(Note that different models / sizes require different spec inverter boards.)

Posted by: blakespot at January 14, 2008 11:12 AM
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